Big Problem 2 ????

[jepawa]

if you've read minez210 he is having a similar problem. I thought mine was fixed, i changed out some bad o-ring on my injectors, and it worked fine,but now it rotates between working injectors. one injector will work then another will quit and that that didnt work will start working. could it be my fuel pump not putting out the right pressure???? factory servive manual tells me nothing. ive put a test light on it and the injectors are getting signal. plug wires are new and have been tested. it will only run on 3 cylinders at any given time. any help appreciated.

[iworshiplemons]

Are your injectors clogged/jammed?
The harness is giving injectors appropriate power at all times?

I'd say bad/dying injectors.

[jepawa]

i replaced all the injectors with new ones and it still did the same thing.

[iworshiplemons]

Check for continuity on the harness between the plugs and the proper pins on the ecu connector.
If not I'd have to say try a new ecu.

Does it throw any codes

[minez210]

oh i heard something about a lifter being stuck open.might be a prob.. its jus something i was told dont quote me on it .
edit .. other guy says your harness is not sending fire to ur injector causeing sum to work and sum not work... lik i said just passing along wat i HEARD

[Bow]

The best way to check the injectors is by touching a long screwdriver to eh metal cap on the injector, then put the handle of the screwdriver to your ear...

with the engine running, you will hear the injector working.. (click, click, click, click, click, click)

If one isn't clicking, it is either burned out (not likely) or clogged (more Likely)

How do you know it is a random problem between the injectors?

Check the ground connections on the engine block and Head?

When was the last time you changed the fuel filter?

If a lifter is stuck open, (never heard of that happening on a KA24DE), that will show up by doing a compression check.

[jepawa]

alright all settled....fixed and running good....FPR is vacume regualted....and yesterday i heard a "whispering" by my throttle body saying ''change my gasket''. i did just that, i noticed a extreme change from a shaky jalopy engine to a smooth running mechanical masterpiece. thanks for everyones advice.

[Bow]

Sweet

Good find

[jepawa]

ok ok well im stumped. my car was dying the other day, took it into the auto zone. they sad i had a bad battery. ok bought a new battery, car ran great for about 3 hours, dead again. ok well i guess the alternator is bad. bought a new re-man alternator from auto zone, replaced mine, charged the new battery. ran great for a few hours then slowly my battery dies out again. what in the hell could it be. and why all of a sudden. i was thinking maybe a ground wire but that was only after i had left the car at the in-laws house. i plugged eveything back the way it was suppose to on the alternator. just really puzzled. any help would be appreciated.

[GamblerZ]

Have you checked to see whether the car is drawing any current while just sitting?

[jepawa]

no basically as i was about to leave i noticed it was dying and after working on it all day. i just said f it for now and i didnt have a multimeter with me. Its in brownfield right now, so it wont be till tomorrow afternoon till i can work on it again. starting to become a money pit.

[i need a 240]

Damn jared your having nothng but problems with her man.

I know a way to fix them all























give her to me lol jk

[jepawa]

you should see her now she looks real good. patched the holes in the hatch, new wheels and tires, tint. just dont run worth a damn

[i need a 240]

you should see her now she looks real good. patched the holes in the hatch, new wheels and tires, tint. just dont run worth a damn
Hahaha damn post up some pics......Dont forrget that you have your altima fans over here

[iworshiplemons]

I know how to fix it.
With your car running, test the voltage between the two posts on the battery. What is it? I'll bet you money it's under 14 volts. With a good battery and working alternator, charge voltage should be upwards of 14 volts. What happened is your pilot charge wire for the alternator stopped working.

On your alternator, there are a couple hookups. There's two bolt-on wires on the back, a large one and a skinny ground. Then, there is a plug with two wires (a large one and a skinny one) coming out of it. The skinny wire coming out of the plug acts as a "catalyst" - what I mean is it primes your alternator for charging. Our alternators, unlike ones of years past, require a "jumper" voltage to excite the field windings inside the body of the alternator. Without this, the alternator will not provide a charge, no matter how new or working it is. All you need to do is connect this skinny wire to a 12v power source, with a SMALL light bulb (like the ones that you use in your gauge cluster) wired in between. Not only will this act as a fuse, but a safety light when working on your car AND an instant telltale sign if your alternator ever goes out again.

This way, when you turn the ign on, that small wire is being fed 12v. This primes and excites the field windings inside the alternator, so that when it turns (when you start the engine), it is allowed to generate electricity, not just sit there doing nothing. The light bulb will light up in the engine bay when the ign is on so it acts as a safety light when you're working on your car (so you can't leave the ign on and shock yourself accidentally), and also if this light ever fails to come on on ign power up, you know your charging system is down. Finally, this light acts as a crude tester for your alternator - because the only function of the skinny wire is a primer. Once the alternator is primed and begun to spin, and generate electricity, the voltage on both sides of the bulb will be the same (therefore removing the circuit), and making the light bulb go off.

So basically, when you turn ign on, the bulb should come on. This indicates a healthy charge system. Then, when you start the car, after a few seconds the light should dim, then go off completely. If this all happens, it means your charging system is working correctly.

If all this goes to plan, then measure voltage between the posts on your battery and it should be close to 14v. This means your alt is charging, and your battery won't die again.

Let me know if this works. I've had this problem on the two hatches I've owned in the past 3 years, and I've helped probably 5-10 other people over the internet with this precise problem, with this exact fix working every time. You have to be a bit finniky with the soldering on the bulb as it's a bit delicate, but take your time, be careful, and don't melt the plastic and you'll be fine.

I'm going to laugh a lot if that's not your problem.

[jepawa]

i haven't tried that yet, but i would have to say that is the most descriptive well given answer to any question on the face of the earth. I'm now going to go try it. let you know by tonight. thanks a lot i hope it helps.

[jepawa]

:friday:iworshiplemon if your at the austin meet ill have to buy you a drink. I did the light trick and it worked like a charm.....for now. i still gott drive 80 miles lets hope it holds up. i actually put in a color changing LED bulb and holster for it. its sweet. pics and video up soon. :bowdown:thanks again.

[iworshiplemons]

All your base are belong to me.
I'll take you up on that offer sometime.

Did you check battery voltage after the trick? Is it ~14 volts?

edit:
It's hard to say whether an LED bulb will work correctly. In theory it should, but for it to be "technically" correct, you should be using a filament bulb, like the ones out the back of your gauge cluster.

[jepawa]

yeah well i couldnt find one on short notice. the auto zone in brownfield is ghey. i thought of that but wasnt sure. the light does go off when the alt. is running. its just not going to be the "fuse" that it should.

[iworshiplemons]

Cool.
Well I'm glad it worked, anyway.
Now when you see someone else with that problem, share the wealth! Easy fix for common problem.